Pattern Drafting 101 - How to Customize a Shirt Placket Pattern

Pattern Drafting 101 - How to Customize a Shirt Placket Pattern

The plackets that we use in shirt making are pattern drafted using simple math. And I've done a lot of the pre work for you, by giving you two free shirt placket pdf patterns that you can use to customize your own shirts and shirt dresses. If you are a Fair Fit Method student and following along with this series, or you are an ambitious wardrobe sewist who needs to add a either a pop over or a tower placket to a project you can download, print and customize the pattern I've included in the post.

In this post and video tutorial, I'll show you how I use the measurements from my custom dress and add the math to the placket to make your own custom pattern. I'm using these plackets to achieve a specific design using my Fair Fit pattern from our Fair Fit Method courses. This pattern drafting tutorial applies to not just Fair Fit patterns, so read along and watch the video to learn how to add plackets to your own personal designs.

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Pattern Drafting 101 - How to Draft Out Darts

Pattern Drafting 101 - How to Draft Out Darts

Have you ever had a pattern that you love but find that you really don't need the dart? Or have you ever wanted to take a pattern designed to be sewn in woven cloth and draft out the darts so it can be sewn with stretch knits?

In this post and video tutorial, I'll show you how I draft out the darts in order to achieve a specific design using my Fair Fit pattern from our Fair Fit Method courses. This pattern drafting tutorial applies to not just Fair Fit patterns, but any sewing pattern where you would like the darts eliminated from the design.

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Creating a Fashion Collaboration: Introducing my Fair Fit Pattern

Creating a Fashion Collaboration: Introducing my Fair Fit Pattern

As I hinted at last week, I have decided to release my Fair Fit Dress as a sewing pattern and online workshop. The pattern actually goes beyond just a dress, because it is a customizable system of components and pattern pieces that build upon each other to make infinite variations.  If the first dress is well received, then throughout the year I plan on releasing each of the components that allow you to further customize the parts into tops, skirts, and other styles of dresses. In this post, you will get a first look at the project!

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Finding New Ways to Appreciate Fashion, through Fair Fashion

Finding New Ways to Appreciate Fashion, through Fair Fashion

In this series, I have explained the name Fair Fit and what it means to me from many different perspectives that have been shaped by my own experience, and where I’m taking my design and education practice to create an opening for students and fashion sewists who do want choice, and more of a voice in how they experience fashion design and the clothes they choose to wear. 

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Fair Relationships in Fashion Professions

Fair Relationships in Fashion Professions

Have you ever had to create your own job? I once did as part of my professional growth, and in this post I share how my student loan debt taught me about creating income and helped me to find a way to make my own job and pay it off. I’ll share with you the steps I took and questions I asked to pay it off. Read along and learn how I turned this big problem into a path to grow professionally.

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Why teaching is so important to create a "Fair Fit."

Why teaching is so important to create a "Fair Fit."

Last week, I shared with you the story as to how my projects developed in the academic art world in Chicago, and then continued to grow into new areas of presentation when I took the art project I made to the runway in New Orleans. I also shared how the two world conflicted, and how at that time, I didn't know how to resolve it, so I took a leave from creating fashion collections. Today, I want to pick up where I left off, and share with you what happened during this sabbatical, and how the key takeaways came to prosper me, and show me new ways of operating in the profession of fashion design. There are some laws of creation I learned and I hope the lessons inspire and encourage you creatively too!

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How I Created My First Clothing Collections

How I Created My First Clothing Collections

In this video presentation about how I created my first clothing collections, you will learn:   1. How your unique voice really comes down to your personal story, and key takeaways that you can use in your personal sewing and design practice too.

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Early Fair Fit Projects and Runway Collections

Early Fair Fit Projects and Runway Collections

In this week’s article, I’ll show you the first project that I developed to create a new experience in a fashion designer and client collaboration that taught me how to balance input and criticism in fashion, and reasons why some people love a design, and why they sometimes don’t. 

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Learning Fit and Fairness in My First Collections

Learning Fit and Fairness in My First Collections

This process of dressing other people made me aware of how fair relationships with clothing and fashion can be formed, and it shaped my perspectives into "fair fit" and "fair fashion". In this post, learn how starting a fashion business shapes your perceptions of clothing and fit and they relate to individual feelings and expression.

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Pattern and Proportion: How to Measure Your Pattern for Correct Size and Alterations

Pattern and Proportion: How to Measure Your Pattern for Correct Size and Alterations

Today I want to share with you some principles and initial steps to take in the beginning with your sewing pattern that will help you avoid sewing up a garment that doesn't fit. In this article, you will learn how to measure the pieces of your pattern, before you cut it, to increase your likely hood of a successfully sewn garment.

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What does "Fair Fit" Really Mean?

What does "Fair Fit" Really Mean?

When I created the name for my sewing studio, I meant for “Fair Fit” to house many examples of fair fashion, beyond the “fit” of clothing. Please read along, in this 6 part series I’ll discuss how in my professional experience I found fairness and became more empowered with clothing, fit, and working as a fashion designer.

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Patternmaking 101 : How Do I Start Making my Own Patterns?!

Patternmaking 101 : How Do I Start Making my Own Patterns?!

In this comprehensive article on the skill of patternmaking, I'll sketch out the learning process, the ideal aptitudes in the maker, the skills, the timeframe, and the critical thinking skills you will need in order to really be a good pattern maker. This article will help you determine if learning this skill really solves your problems, or if you can take another approach that gets you to your desired outcome more easily. 

In the free workbook included with this post, I’ll introduce you to how a patternmaker looks at a design, so that you can understand the conceptual process I’ve used in my own work and with our students. Whether or not you are going to be drafting your own patterns, or interpreting commercial patterns, this workbook will help you look at patterns from a different perspective and how they serve you in design.

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Pattern and Alteration: How to Make common Sleeve Alterations

Pattern and Alteration: How to Make common Sleeve Alterations

In this post learn the most common sleeve alterations that I’ve seen in my practice and teaching to help you get a better fit and proportion for your sewn sleeves. You will not only need to know how to reduce fullness and shorten them at times, but when working with a sewing pattern, you might need to add or reduce sleeve ease if you are struggling to set your sleeve properly. There is a specific formula that helps you know the exact amount of ease you need to set the sleeve, read more to follow along. 

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Pattern and Proportion: 6 Proportion Tips for a Better Fit

Pattern and Proportion: 6 Proportion Tips for a Better Fit

Choosing the right pattern, and making it work for your unique proportions is really important. Today I want to share with you 6 tips to help you find the right proportions. There are some initial measurements and alterations that will help improve the proportion of your garment before you cut your fabric.

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The Basic Smock Dress- Working with Japanese Patterns

The Basic Smock Dress- Working with Japanese Patterns

I've got another great weekend project for you! This one is for sewists looking for design inspiration and a more advanced project to improve your skills. In this post, learn all about working with Japanese Patterns and what you need to look for when working with this type of design. I will show you my process of working with the pattern, how to make it fit, how I sewed its details and finishing. Read along and get the tips I use to make the process easy and efficient. 

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