Pattern Drafting 101 - How to Customize a Shirt Placket Pattern

Pattern Drafting 101 - How to Customize a Shirt Placket Pattern

The plackets that we use in shirt making are pattern drafted using simple math. And I've done a lot of the pre work for you, by giving you two free shirt placket pdf patterns that you can use to customize your own shirts and shirt dresses. If you are a Fair Fit Method student and following along with this series, or you are an ambitious wardrobe sewist who needs to add a either a pop over or a tower placket to a project you can download, print and customize the pattern I've included in the post.

In this post and video tutorial, I'll show you how I use the measurements from my custom dress and add the math to the placket to make your own custom pattern. I'm using these plackets to achieve a specific design using my Fair Fit pattern from our Fair Fit Method courses. This pattern drafting tutorial applies to not just Fair Fit patterns, so read along and watch the video to learn how to add plackets to your own personal designs.

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Pattern Drafting 101 - How to Draft Out Darts

Pattern Drafting 101 - How to Draft Out Darts

Have you ever had a pattern that you love but find that you really don't need the dart? Or have you ever wanted to take a pattern designed to be sewn in woven cloth and draft out the darts so it can be sewn with stretch knits?

In this post and video tutorial, I'll show you how I draft out the darts in order to achieve a specific design using my Fair Fit pattern from our Fair Fit Method courses. This pattern drafting tutorial applies to not just Fair Fit patterns, but any sewing pattern where you would like the darts eliminated from the design.

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My Design Process for Adapting the Fair Fit Dress for Summer Trends

My Design Process for Adapting the Fair Fit Dress for Summer Trends

I love analyzing the photo or technical sketch of an intriguing sewing pattern to ready to wear garment that I would like to have in my wardrobe. And when you know how to analyze an existing garment or pattern, you start seeing the current trends and new designs are really just a few key changes and improvements to the pattern and your design can be the latest thing you see on the cool fashion blogs and instagram.

For this summer, I wanted to have some fun with the Fair Fit pattern and make my own adaptations to it to show how I use my design, drafting, and sewing skills to keep it current. In this series of posts, I've included sewing, pattern drafting, and custom design tutorials to illustrate the process I use in my personal practice to adapt my pattern to current trends. In this post and video tutorial, I'll show you my planning process and break down the skills and steps needed to craft your own custom design.

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Fair Fit Spring/Summer Dress Collection - Megan's Dress and How I Designed Dress 7

Fair Fit Spring/Summer Dress Collection - Megan's Dress and How I Designed Dress 7

 I can't wait to share Megan's dress with you today. In the development of the Fair Fit Method, and all of its courses, I am continuously testing the course with experienced makers in order to make sure my instructions are clear, the pattern is refined, and add more explanation that is helpful as the course grows and develops.

Megan is an experienced fashion design PHD student at LSU, and I had the intention of working with her during her winter break for over 6 months. She was highly recommended by my friend Dr. Casey Stannard, and when Megan agreed to test the course and work with me during the winter to add some finishing touches on the course work I was thrilled. 

In today's post and video, I break down the process of design for Megan's dress, and our final dress in the Spring/Summer Fair Fit Dress collection. 

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Fair Fit Spring/Summer Dress Collection - How I Designed Dress 5 and 6

Fair Fit Spring/Summer Dress Collection - How I Designed Dress 5 and 6

Fashion really can't be copyrighted most of the time, even though there's been many battles fought for it.

It's hard to copyright fashion design because clothes are designed from the same basic shapes that get changed over the years to adapt to trends. And the shapes go back 100's of years, so who really owns them? A wrap dress could be said to mimic Roman or Egyptian dress. When you really look at enough patterns, and sew up enough garments you start to see that they are consistently derived from the same blocks and shapes over and over again. So where does innovation occur?

In this week's post, I discuss adding design ease and customizing the pattern to incorporate sleeves. Watch the video and read the full article to learn more.

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Fair Fit Spring/Summer Dress Collection - How I Designed Dress 3 and 4

Fair Fit Spring/Summer Dress Collection - How I Designed Dress 3 and 4

I know this isn't the most fun way to do it, but a lot of the time planning out a me made wardrobe usually comes down to the math for me!

When I was composing the latest Fair Fit collection, I focused on lifestyle design. Dress 3 and 4 in the collection provided me the opportunity to consider and create garments using the Fair Fit Pattern that could feasibly be worn in a work setting. I know that we dress for different kinds of work, so I had to choose a type of environment, and for this part of the collection I focused on office professional/business casual attire.

In this week's blog post and video, I break down the thought process I used to design dress 3 and 4, as the considerations of how the dress layers with other garments in order to style it for specific purposes and environments. 

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Fair Fit Spring/Summer Dress Collection - How I Designed Dress 1 and 2

Fair Fit Spring/Summer Dress Collection - How I Designed Dress 1 and 2

In today's post, I wanted to show the process of making the Fair Fit Dress Collection for Spring and Summer 2018 a little more in depth. I'll focus on just the first two designs featured in the video and the process of collecting items from previous work and collections to use for repurpose. I also made a short video that breaks down the dresses, showing their previous incarnations, with a quick demonstration of the thought process of repurpose and redesign that I used to create these 2 new garments. 

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The Process I Used to Create the Latest Fair Fit Dress Collection

The Process I Used to Create the Latest Fair Fit Dress Collection

I am thrilled to share with you today what I’ve been working on behind the scenes for the last 2 months! With the launch of the Fair Fit Method this past winter and the opportunity to share ideas and design projects within the course, I spent January and February coming up with new designs for the Fair Fit Dress with the intention of sharing these designs with the current Fair Fit Method students to inspire their work in the upcoming Learn and Make the Fair Fit Dress course.  I created a collection for a video collaboration I did with my friend Jill Hall. In this post, read more and check out the video!

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Find and Define Your 2018 Sewing Refinements

Find and Define Your 2018 Sewing Refinements

How will your grow your sewing practice in 2018? What will you differently this year? In this article, I discuss a process of reflection and editing I'm using to hone my me made wardrobe and make more refined and functional garments in 2018.

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Sewing For Fashion Design- Take a Look at my New Repurposing Method - Heirloom Repurpose

Sewing For Fashion Design- Take a Look at my New Repurposing Method - Heirloom Repurpose

some sewists are sewing up A LOT of stuff. Are we wearing or using all of it? and what do we do if the answer is no? Sometimes its hard, just like clothing you buy at the store, not every item that we make really gets worn for a multitude of reasons. And its really hard to part with a me made- if you donate it, because it doesn't have a designer label, it can just get thrown in the "craft" heap. Sometimes they have sentimental value too, like the ones I'm about to show you.

In this post, I want to share with you a recent make, and a method that I devised called "heirloom repurpose." It is a practice of actually repurposing me mades that you no longer have use for, or never quite got worn, but still maintain significance that make it hard to part with them.

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Sweating Your Sewing? Break These 5 Rules and Get Back to Making!

Sweating Your Sewing? Break These 5 Rules and Get Back to Making!

Don't get me wrong, there are definitely fundamentals to sewing that you really must learn, practice, and master to get great results with your sewing and work with sewing patterns. But honestly, if enough people complain, and ask why something is done in that certain way, you have to start considering is this rule really necessary? In this post, we will explore why the rules exist, when not to sweat it, and when they really matter. 

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Find Your Best Colors: How to Use Color Draping to Create a Custom Color Palate

Find Your Best Colors: How to Use Color Draping to Create a Custom Color Palate

Are you at a loss when it comes to color? Check out this color process and workbook to discover and create a customized palate for your wardrobe, sewing, or fashion collections. This color tutorial will introduce you to colors you may have never considered. I’m going to use what I made for my wardrobe sewing practice and you might find it helpful too! 

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Help Me Get Started in Fashion Design!

Help Me Get Started in Fashion Design!

Need help getting started in the field of fashion design? First things first, its important to develop your own individual perspective as a fashion designer. In this post and its free workbook, I walk you through a series of questions designed to help you define and develop your perspective as a designer. Read along, and get started!

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Bring Fashion Design to Your Life!

Bring Fashion Design to Your Life!

How are interior architects and designers creating remarkable homes, and how does it relate to fashion design in your own life? In this article, let's explore the similarities between the design of home, lifestyle, and interior space and how it can inspire your own clothing design practice and bring fashion design to your daily life and creative practice.

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8 Lessons Learned from Building a Self Sewn Wardrobe

8 Lessons Learned from Building a Self Sewn Wardrobe

Have you been thinking of sewing your own self sewn wardrobe this year? SAVE yourself from some of the frustrations I encountered. In this post I share key ah-has, takeaways, pitfalls and lessons I learned this year as I sewed all of my own clothing. 

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