How to Sew a Fly Zipper

Fly zippers are a popular tutorial request when I am with my private lesson students. Even though they are pretty simple, some pattern instructions can make them seem so complicated that I always have to consult the method that I learned from my favorite sewing book. 

In this written and video tutorial, I will walk you step by step through the process of sewing a fly zipper in a fast and easy method.  

Read the written tutorial below, and for those of you who learn better by watching videos and pausing to practice the steps, click here to get access the video lesson. It will be sent to your inbox so you can learn and practice again and again!

1. Stitch the center front or inseam closed at seam allowance to the pattern marking.

2. Pin the fly facing to the right side of the garment and sew.

There are 3 parts to the fly zipper, the fly facing which goes on the right, and the fly shield and zipper which attach to the left side.

Pin the fly facing to the right side, and then sew it at seam allowance. You want to be extra careful to check your pattern and sew it at the proper seam allowance that the designer states in the instructions.

3. Press the fly facing, and then fold it to the wrong side of the garment. Press the fly down, and again as close to the fold as possible to create a sharp crease.

4. Place the zipper face down, and get it as close to the folded edge as possible and pin the right side.

In this written and video tutorial, I will walk you step by step through the process of sewing a fly zipper in a fast and easy method. Click through to watch and learn!

5. Sew the pinned, or right side of the zipper down. 

6. Fold the fly over to the inside of the garment and sew it down, following the edge of the fly or the serging. 

7. Fold the left side of the zipper 1/4 an inch to the inside, and then pin to the left side of the zipper.

8. Line up the fly shield edge with the serging to the back side of the zipper and pin it into place. 

9. Sew the left side, keeping your stitches as close to the fold as possible.

10. Bar tack or close the bottom of the zipper through all thicknesses using a special design.

Before you do this step, check out your jeans. You will see lots of different ways designers do this step. 

11. Unzip the zipper to check your work!

And you are done! I did my best to get as many shots as possible, but to get close ups and more in depth information on this tutorial, check out the video lesson.


I have been teaching sewing for over 6 years now, and finally have made my most popular class, Beginner's Sewing, available as an online video course. You can now learn at home, at your own pace, with my comprehensive class for beginner sewists. Get started sewing today, and soon, you will be making your own clothes too!!

I'm always looking for fun tutorials to show you and my students. Let me know how I can help you, and you might just see it pop up as a tutorial soon :)

Thanks and happy sewing!