Pattern Drafting 101 - How to Customize a Shirt Placket Pattern

The plackets that we use in shirt making are pattern drafted using simple math. And I've done a lot of the pre work for you, by giving you two free shirt placket pdf patterns that you can use to customize your own shirts and shirt dresses. If you are a Fair Fit Method student and following along with this series, or you are an ambitious wardrobe sewist who needs to add a pop over or a tower placket to a project you can download, print and customize the pattern I've included in the post.

In this post and video tutorial, I'll show you how I use the measurements from my custom dress and add the math to the placket to make your own custom pattern. I'm using these plackets to achieve a specific design using my Fair Fit pattern from our Fair Fit Method courses. This pattern drafting tutorial applies to not just Fair Fit patterns, so read along and watch the video to learn how to add plackets to your own personal designs.

The Fair Fit Method - Pattern Drafting 101 - How to Customize a Shirt Placket Pattern

In this Fair Fit design adaptation, I am adding a full length shirt placket to the back of my dress. Because I did not customize this dress with a back yoke, I am going to use a pop over placket design and lengthen it to the amount I need to match my specific length.

Another way you may want to adapt and further customize a placket is by changing its width. If you are using the pattern pieces I've included, know that the seam allowance for the pop over placket is 1/2 SA and the tower is 1/4 SA. The total width of the pop over placket when sewn is 1.25 inches and the tower final width is 3/4 an inch. If you want to make it wider/skinnier simply add or subtract from the sides.

The video Process

  1. Trace the pop over placket piece onto a larger piece of paper.

  2. Be sure to include the stitching lines.

  3. Add extra inches to the placket customized to your unique length.

  4. Redraw all lines to the new length.

The Fair Fit Method - Pattern Drafting 101 - How to Customize a Shirt Placket Pattern

Easy peasy! After you have your new custom piece, go and cut out the pattern, cut the cloth, and cut out interfacing. Fuse it to the back of the placket, and then join me next week as I'm going to demonstrate my process for sewing pop over plackets. See you then!

If you want to create your own custom self sewn clothes and like this way of learning, I want to invite you to check out my signature online courses, the Fair Fit Method. It is a series of online sewing and fashion design courses that will teach you how to create custom clothing for yourself that adapts to your personal shape and style. Using the Fair Fit pattern and the 6 core areas of focus - design, pattern, draping, check fit, sewing, and customization, you can create your own artistically and intentionally designed wardrobe using the step by step videos in each course. To learn more and read the full course descriptions visit the full website here: 

The Fair Fit Method - Pattern Drafting 101 - How to Customize a Shirt Placket Pattern
The Fair Fit Method - Pattern Drafting 101 - How to Customize a Shirt Placket Pattern